Just back from a day trip to the most southern end of Brunei. Now I am
relaxing at the Empire Hotel making use of its free wi-fi and delicious
shakes. As I type I am sucking back a coconut and mango bomb. It would
be a fantastic bomb if it had a shake or two of Malibu, but I am sure my
liver is liking the break in this alcohol free country.
Kuala Belait (KB) is the 2nd city in Brunei and it is right on the
border of Malaysia. My impression of it from my 2 visits there in the
last 10 days is, Shell Petroleum is the heart and the oil is its blood
pumping life into the surrounding areas. You cannot miss the Shell
presence, from the oil fields to the pipes to the storage units to the
Shell workers housing compounds and of course the petrol stations.
Although ironically we nearly ran out of petrol in the Shell hub,
thankfully we didn't have to dig in the ground to fill the tank, but we
were close.
KB is a about 120 km from Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB), the capital of
Brunei and the 1 road there is a smooth ride for most of the way. Once
you get into KB there is a huge tea pot sculpture and from there you are
able to navigate yourself into the city. Go straight and turn left
until you hit the river. The main drag is one street and it is
deceiving, you see it and think, hmmm is that it. Fortunately, that
isn't it, there is so much more, you just need to walk down the little
narrow allies off the main drag. Behind the main street you will find
great little boutiques with fashions from Singapore and Hong Kong, knock
off labels from various other countries, food halls and restaurants
filled with locals on their lunch breaks having bowls of noodles for
BND$2.00, tailors cutting beautifully flowing cloth to make baju karongs
(the traditional dress for women), hairdressers playing with their
hair, stall holders selling fresh vegetables and fish and people many
people fanning themselves waiting for life to pass by or work to finish.
Away
from the main drag are the beaches and the river. The water at the
beaches is brown but apparently not from dirt, they are brown from the
silt. So you can swim all you like but do ask the locals where the
crocodiles are. There are places where they are and aren't, make sure
you are in the aren't places.
KB is a nice little city with a real local feel. What you see is what
you get, a relaxed, slow moving but perfectly functional city/town. It
also has the the benefit of being close to Miri in Malaysia, close to
shops which are cheaper and places for other forms of entertainment not
offered in Brunei, like a quiet beer at the pub, or a rowdy drink at a
club.
I can't recommend any place in particular to go to in KB, as I was only
there for a few hours and I will have to go back and investigate, but if
you make it there, make sure you hit the back streets for a good local
vibe and feel.
http://stilltravelling-sarah.blogspot.co.id/2011/01/day-trip-to-kuala-belait.html
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Kuala Belait means "the mounth of the Belait River" and it is second largest town in the country.
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